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- Written by: The DIY Hunter
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Being the Do-It-Yourself guy I am, I thought a homemade coyote caller would be a lot cheaper than a commercial electronic call and a fun project for me to tinker around with.
I started out using an old Browning flashlight housing. I got an inexpensive mp3 player and the Speco SPC-5P speaker from eBay and a old double male audio cable I had kicking around the house. The rest of the parts needed I ordered from Radio Shack.
The battery pack holds eight batteries so to achieve 9 volts (6 times 1.5v AA batteries equals 9v) I placed a piece of copper tubing across one of the two AA battery slots. Having this larger pack of batteries lasts a lot longer than just a single 9v battery.
I then cut the bottom of the mini amplifier off so that it would fit inside the flashlight case and wired it as shown in the diagram.
Using audio editing software I changed the meta tags of all my predator MP3 sounds. I changed the "artist" tag to different animal sounds. In this way I could browse by artist and bring up all the rabbit or coyote sounds etc. I set the MP3 player to repeat so I can pause and play the same sound over and over.
Another thing I like to do with my MP3 files is make 20-30 minute calling scenario MP3 files. I do this by bringing various sounds into my audio editing software. For instance I will have two minutes of silence at the beginning, then I will have a series of mouse squeaks and then a minute or so pause. Then some louder rabbit squalls and then a couple of series of the rabbit squalls over a ten minute window. Towards the end I will often throw in a coyote challenge bark/howl and then a distress ki-yi bark. You can also mix in bird sounds all along the way like a crow or a magpie. I think you get the idea. You can have fun and make all sorts of various predator calling sequences.
A pair of coyotes taken with my homemade electronic caller. You can read more about this hunt in my 243 WSSM Model 1885 Coyote Double journal entry.
When I have these long pre-made audio sequences I can set my call out in front of me however far I want. I now have two minutes to get back into position before the mouse squeaking starts. Then I sit back and enjoy the show.
Basic parts list that I used:
- MP3 Player
- Housing, from a flashlight case or gym bag etc.
- Speco SPC-5P Speaker
- 8 "AA" Battery Holder (Radio Shack, Catalog #270-407)
- Red LED with Holder (Radio Shack, Catalog #276-084), Optional but nice to know when it is on.
- Fully Insulated 9V Battery Snap Connectors (Radio Shack, Catalog #270-325)
- SPST 3-Amp "Soft-Feel" Push On-Push Off Switch (Radio Shack, Catalog #275-1565)
- 3.5mm male to male audio extension cable
Mini Amp before I cut the bottom off.
Mini Amp with bottom battery compartment removed.
Battery pack, Mini Amp, and Speaker.
View inside the main compartment.
I drilled two holes through the speaker and used screws to hold the speaker in place.

View of the outside before wrapping it in a removable camouflage wrap.
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- Written by: The DIY Hunter
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Below are the Triple Shock bullets that I have been able to recover, all taken from elk. Off the top of my head I can think of sixteen other Barnes Triple Shocks that I have not been able to recover as they have passed through mule deer and elk like butter. I have learned that these bullets will pass through mule deer and elk at any range from 110 yards out to 608 yards (270 WSM, double shoulder blade cow elk at 608 yards) and a 80 Gr. TTSX on Takes a Buck at 619 Yards with a 243 WSSM. The 130g Triple Shock out of my 270 WSM Model 1885 never expands to the point that it slows down enough to remain in the elk or deer unless I have shoot them through the full length of the elk, from the front end to the back end. The bullets also perform best if I hit solid leg and shoulder bone in the front shoulder.
If I don't hit solid bone I never hear any sound that indicates a hit. With traditional lead core bullets I get an audible "whop" sound on impact. Triple Shocks for me have never produced the "whop" sound with a shot just behind the shoulders and through the rib cage. If I hit bone in the shoulders I get a audible indication that I made a hit with more of a "cracking" sound.
Triple Shock bullets are some of the most consistently accurate bullets that I have ever shot. Shot after shot they always group well on paper. The Triple Shock is my favorite short range bullet because no matter what I hit the bullet is not going to stop penetrating. At the shorter ranges say 350 yards and under you will get decent bullet expansion. At longer ranges the bullet still penetrates just as much as it does at short ranges however the bullet doesn't expand as much. The bullet basically always penetrates the same amount (well it always passes through) regardless the range, I just get a lot less expansion the further the distance. And no matter what the range I now hold to crush the center of the shoulders so I can hear the hits and see the deer or elk fall over quicker.
You can read about this hunting experience in my journal entry: 2009 Cow Elk Hunt — Dallen's First Cow Elk Taken With A 243 WSSM |
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Another thought I had with the .277 Triple Shock Bullet offerings. According to Barnes the 130g Triple Shock has a better BC (ballistic coefficient) than the 140g Triple Shock. In most bullets with the same diameter the heavier bullet has the better BC. Not so in this case. Although I have never shot the 140g Triple Shock, on paper the 130g bullet is going to leave the muzzle faster and maintain it's speed and flat trajectory longer because of the better ballistic coefficient. And with the complete penetration I always get with the 130g variety it makes me wonder why you would even want the 140g variety???
At ranges over 300 yards my favorite bullet with my 270 WSM is a 140g Nosler Accubond. The bullet isn't any more accurate than a Triple Shock, it just expands better at longer ranges and it fragments. And one thing I have found is that even if this bullet doesn't drop the elk or deer real fast they are really messed up and don't run off anywhere. I've witnessed elk and mule deer hit with the triple shock through the chest and shoulders that have brushed the hit off like it never happened then took off a running. So far the 140g Accubond although it my not drop the elk as fast the elk are very sick and have stuck around for a follow-up finishing shot.
I actually wish the Triple Shock bullets would loose their pedals upon impact giving much more internal damage with multiple bullet fragments flying around inside the chest cavity. I understand that high velocity projectiles passing through the chest cavity of a big game animal create tremendous shock to the animal. And who doesn't think the images of the perfectly expanded Triple Shock don't look cool? I have just heard and seen a few too many times where hydrostatic shock drops an animal, then they jump back up and take off. Sometimes the Triple Shock's shock effect is amazing and other times you are left with only the "pencil" effect of a single small hole going in and a single small hole going out. If the bullet doesn't initially shock the deer to death what else is going to bring it down?
The old Nosler Partition bullets are one of if not the best at performing well on game. They offer great penetration and also fragment to create more actual internal damage, not just shock. Nosler, could you place a plastic tip and a sleek boat tail shape on your partition bullets? Or just place the partition wall across the center of a accubond bullet. Then I could have a "cool" looking bullet that performs well on big game at almost any range.
Here are a few 140g Nosler AccuBond related hunts.
- 270 WSM Handloads
- 2010 Mule Deer Hunt — Last Day Busted G2 Buck with X-Bolt 270 WSM
- 2010 Elk Hunt — 5x5 Bull with X-Bolt 270 WSM
- 2010 Oklahoma Whitetail Hunt — Hunting with 243 WSSM & 270 WSM Rifles
- 2009 Cow Elk Hunt — Dallen's First Cow Elk Taken With A 243 WSSM
Here's some experiences with the 150 Gr. Accubond Long Range Bullet
- See how the bullet performs or should I say disintegrates: 2013 Utah Youth Elk Hunt — Dallen Shoots Big Ol' Charlie One Horn
- 2013 Utah Rifle Deer Hunt — Dallen Shoots "Whitey" A Four Point Mule Deer Buck
- 2014 Utah General Rifle Deer Hunt - Dallen Gets a Nice Four Point Buck
Here are a few links to 243 WSSM Triple Shock hunts.
- 243 WSSM Handloads
- 2011 Rifle Mule Deer Hunt — Dallen Takes a Buck at 619 Yards with a 243 WSSM
- 2010 Cow Elk Hunt — Dallen Takes Another Elk With A Single Shot From A 243 WSSM
- 2010 Oklahoma Whitetail Hunt — Hunting with 243 WSSM & 270 WSM Rifles
- 2010 Dallen's First Mule Deer — Four Point Taken with a 243 WSSM
- 2009 Cow Elk Hunt — Dallen's First Cow Elk Taken With A 243 WSSM
- Dallen's First Elk, Taken with a 243 WSSM
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Here is some video showing the sleds in action hauling Dallen's cow elk off the mountain in December of 2010.
Our family prefers elk meat to beef and I have been fortunate to often draw late cow tags. My brother and friends have also drawn tags throughout the years so I have also been involved in helping them get their cow elk off the mountain. All in all I average assisting in hauling three cow elk a year out on foot. For years we tried a variety of methods, dragging, quartering, various sled types and calling in horse support. I needed to find a DIY way to haul an elk out in one trip, without needing to ask for help.
Sleds offered my best option as long as there was snow. I tried the roll-up variety one year. They were easy enough to carry around while hunting tied to my pack but they were horrible at keeping the meat bags on the sled unless I was on a nice flat trail. One year we used a long plastic toboggan style sled. Again this sled worked great as long as you were on a nice flat trail. The toboggan kept tipping overcoming out the bottom of a steep canyon and when we had to go around sidehills. This sled is also a pain to haul in as you have to drag it wherever you go which, also makes a lot of noise in the process. I tried saucer sleds one year and liked them for their ease in carrying strapped to the back of my pack. I also liked hauling the boned out meat in my meat bags with them. But again I had issues with going around steep sidehills as the bags of meat could not be tied in well enough to keep them on the saucer.
The following year I was back with the saucers but this time I had modified the sleds so I could run chord back and forth across the top of the sled creating a web over the meat. I could also tie two sleds together forming a clam-like dish that could flip over and be pulled with either side down. At first I thought that I would need the two sleds tied together to go around steep sidehills but, with the saucers being round and with the low center of gravity they just don't flip over. They will slide around just about anything. This system has worked great.
I now stack a couple of these saucers on my back and away I go. With the saucer sleds, my meat bags and a few hour's time to bone out the elk, I can hunt just about whenever and wherever I want with the confidence that I can get an elk out without the need of friends and/or horses.
Here are some notes on how I made and use my meat saucers while hunting.
- Heating up a nail I melt holes around the outer rim of the sled.
- I weave parachute cord or shoelaces around the rim of the sled.
- I take several canvas meat bags to place the meat in.
- After placing the bags on the sled I then weave chord back and forth across the bags creating a web to hold the bags on the sled.
- I stack a couple of sleds together and tie them to the back of my pack while hunting.
- A small cow or calf can easily fit on one saucer sled. I generally take two saucers per elk that I or my group could possibly be bringing off the mountain that day.
- I take my time and bone out the elk properly getting all the meat.
- I make sure I have a headlamp or two with extra batteries and good technical hunting clothing so I can take my time coming out in the dark if necessary.
- I use at least a half-inch diameter rope or a one-inch flat rope for the handle area that I hold to pull with.
- I don't wrap the rope around my hands in case the meat decides to pull me down the mountain I won't get drug with it.
- If I need to pull two sleds I create a "train" by tying saucers together.
- I use caution and take my time in steep terrain.
Now if I could just get saucer sleds in white and hunter orange-colored varieties.

My son Dallen in 2010 pulling a Meat Saucer Sled filled with his boned out cow elk meat.
Meat Saucer Sleds filled with Dallen's 2010 boned out cow elk ready to be hauled off the mountain.

A couple of Meat Saucers and two sizes of my homemade big game meat bags. I like to have at least six large bags and two or three smaller bags per elk. I use smaller bags for the tenderloin and back straps.
This photo shows a small 5 Point Bull elk boned out and hanging in my homemade DIY Heavy Duty Canvas Big Game Bags. Boned out meat in breathable canvas meat bags helps the meat cool faster buying time, keeping it from spoiling. In 2011 I found some manufactured big game bags that although not as rugged they should work even better at keeping the meat from spoiling.